Greek red wines are a treasure trove of unique grape varieties

Having written about Greek white wines earlier this year, as autumn approaches it is time to look at its red wines. Greece has a treasure trove of more than 300 indigenous grape varieties, until recently unknown to even the nerdiest wine geek. However, interest in Greek wines has been growing over the past five years. O’Briens and Marks & Spencer have led the way, followed more recently by Aldi. This week let’s take two red varieties that are worth investigating.
Agiorgitiko is quite a mouthful to say, as are many Greek grape varieties for English-speakers. It is the most widely planted grape variety in Greece and can produce a range of styles from (very good) rosés, to rich full-bodied reds with soft tannins.
Xinomavro, grown mainly in northern Greece and the Naoussa region in particular is often compared to Nebbiolo, the grape responsible for Barolo and Barbaresco in northern Italy. You can see why. Both wines are aromatic, high in acidity and tannins, with an ability to age.
I recommended the white Aldi Assyrtiko before; it offers fantastic value for money. The Athlon Nemea below is new to the retailer. It is not quite as good as the white wine but is still well worth trying out if you want an inexpensive introduction to Greek red wines.
When it comes to food, do not restrict yourself to Greek food. With its tannic structure, Xinomavro tends to go better with grilled or roast meats, but it also goes nicely with fried or roast Mediterranean vegetables.
Medium-bodied with ripe red fruits and a spicy edge. Try it with lamb souvlaki or roast red peppers.
From Aldi
Tannic with plenty of concentrated plums and other dark fruits, and a touch of oak. Needs time to open up. Perfect with grilled pork or lamb dishes.
From Blackrock Cellar; Corkscrew, D2; Redmonds, D6; Whelehan’s, Loughlinstown
A very refined, elegant wine with very attractive red fruits, a herbal touch and fine dry tannins. Enjoy it with herby lamb and tomato stews, grilled lamb chops or firm cheeses.
From Honest 2 Goodness, H2gwines.ie; Mitchell & Son, D1, Sandycove
A maturing single vineyard wine with sour cherry, redcurrant and plum fruits, fine tannins on the finish and good length. Try it with roast lamb.
From Grapevine, Dalkey; Barnhill Stores, Glenageary